Getting Oriented
The Smithsonian Butte National Backcountry Byway is a 9-mile dirt road between Rockville (north end, near Zion National Park's south entrance) and Apple Valley (south end, on State Route 59). The byway is BLM-managed and traces the eastern edge of Smithsonian Butte across Gooseberry, Grafton, and Wire Mesas in southwestern Utah. The route provides direct, low-traffic views of Zion's southern peaks (the West Temple, Eagle Crags, and the Vermilion Cliffs of Canaan Mountain Wilderness) and access to the Grafton ghost town side trip.
Trail Overview
The byway is unpaved for its full length, with grades that climb from the Virgin River bottom near Rockville to the mesa top. The road is generally passable to high-clearance two-wheel-drive vehicles in dry conditions; heavy rain or winter snow can render it impassable. The mesa-top sections are exposed to wind and sun.
A typical drive takes 30 to 45 minutes one way. Allow longer for the Grafton side trip and time at the West Temple overlook or on the mesa trail networks.
Points of Interest
- Grafton ghost town. A 1.8-mile side trip from the byway accesses Grafton, settled in 1861 and abandoned by 1944. Several preserved buildings remain. The Grafton Heritage Partnership stewards the site.
- West Temple overlook. A pullout near the highest point of the byway provides one of the best low-elevation views of Zion's West Temple (7,810 ft).
- Gooseberry Mesa, Grafton Mesa, and Wire Mesa. All three mesas crossed by the byway have non-motorized trail networks popular with mountain bikers and hikers. Trailhead access is from the byway itself.
- Eagle Crags and the Vermilion Cliffs. The eastern edge of the route looks across Canaan Mountain Wilderness toward these BLM-protected sandstone formations.
Where to Camp
Camping is prohibited on federally managed lands within half a mile of either side of the byway. Dispersed camping is permitted on BLM lands across Gooseberry Mesa beyond that buffer, with the standard 14-day stay limit within any 28-day period. There are no developed campgrounds on the byway itself; established options are in Springdale (Zion's gateway town) and St. George.
Tips for a Safe and Enjoyable Trip
- Check road conditions in winter. The byway is generally passable in the dry season but closes effectively after heavy rain or snow. Confirm with the BLM St. George Field Office at (435) 688-3200 before driving in marginal conditions.
- Pack out what you pack in. The mesas have no garbage facilities.
- Stay on designated routes. OHV and non-motorized routes on the mesas are signed. Cross-country travel damages cryptobiotic soil that takes decades to recover.
- Plan a Grafton stop. The 1.8-mile spur is worth the time; the preserved buildings and cemetery are stewarded by the Grafton Heritage Partnership.
- Mind the cliff edges. Several pullouts overlook unprotected drops.
