Getting Oriented
Wrangell-St. Elias covers more ground than any other national park in the United States, and almost none of it is reachable by car. Two roads enter. The McCarthy Road comes in from the south; Nabesna Road is the northern one, leaving the Tok Cutoff at Slana and running southeast for 42 miles up a valley between the Mentasta Mountains and the Wrangells.
The road exists because of the Nabesna Gold Mine, which operated from 1925 to 1945. That mine sits on private ground at the far end, and the Park Service asks visitors to stay away from it entirely. Tailings there are acidic and high in metals, and surface water in the area contains arsenic, cadmium, chromium, mercury, nickel, and lead. An environmental investigation into cleanup options is ongoing.
Federal ground begins at Mile 2.7. At Mile 5.6 the north side of the road becomes national preserve and the south side national park, a split that decides where sport hunting is legal. Both sides are preserve again from Mile 28.1. Private inholdings adjoin long stretches throughout, including the settlement reached by the "4-Mile" Road at Mile 4.0, opened to homesteading by the BLM in 1983.
Trail Overview
Alaska's transportation department maintains the road intermittently, and the Park Service tells drivers to expect rough surface and washouts at the creek crossings. High clearance and four-wheel drive are recommended. The agency's estimate is 90 minutes each way for the 42 miles.
The road climbs gently through the first 28 miles to a watershed divide at Mile 24.7, the high point at 3,320 feet. Water west of that line drains to the Copper River and the Gulf of Alaska. Water east of it reaches the Bering Sea by way of Jack Creek, the Nabesna, the Tanana, and the Yukon.
At Mile 28.1 the Park Service posts a warning that conditions can deteriorate. Three creeks cross the roadbed beyond it with no bridge: Trail Creek at Mile 29.8, Lost Creek at Mile 31.2, and Boyden Creek at Mile 34.3. The agency describes those beds as generally dry, says high clearance and four-wheel drive may be necessary during spring runoff or after prolonged rain, and tells drivers to evaluate every crossing before driving it. The road dead-ends, so water that comes up during the day has to be recrossed on the way out.
The maintained road ends at Mile 42.0 at Devil's Mountain Lodge, private property with an active airstrip. Public parking sits about a quarter mile past the lodge on public land. Nothing beyond that point is maintained, and travel continues on foot.
Points of Interest
- Slana Ranger Station, Mile 0.2. Current road and creek conditions, maps, park information, and free off-road-vehicle permits for the designated trails that leave the road. Open daily 9:00 to 5:00 mid-May through mid-September, closed October through April. (907) 822-7401.
- Slana Roadhouse, Mile 1.0. Built in the 1930s on a site occupied since 1912, when it served travelers bound for Chisana and Alaska's last gold rush. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Private, not open to the public.
- Caribou Creek Trail, Mile 19.2. Roughly three miles to a reservable public-use cabin, with parking back at the gravel pit at Mile 18.9.
- Rock Lake, Mile 21.8. A quarter-mile trail leaves the north side of the road for the Viking Lodge cabin, also reservable through the park.
- Trail Creek and Lost Creek, Miles 29.8 and 31.2. Both trailheads sit at their fords. Trail Creek runs about six miles, Lost Creek about seven, and each continues a few miles further to a pass. Dall sheep country.
- Skookum Volcano Trail, Mile 36.2. Two and a half miles one way through an eroded volcanic system, climbing from 3,000 feet at the road to 4,800 feet at the pass. The banded rock here came out of vents active between two and four million years ago.
- Reeve's Field, Mile 40.2. A 4.2-mile trail to views of the Nabesna River. In 1941 the pilot Bob Reeve cut construction equipment into pieces here, flew the parts to Northway in a Boeing Trimotor, and had them welded back together to build the airport that later became a stop on the lend-lease route to the Soviet Union.
- Rambler Mine, Mile 42.5. A steep one-mile walk from the public parking area to a mine worked after the war, ending at views over the Nabesna River and the Nutzotin Mountains.
Where to Camp
Kendesnii Campground at Mile 27.8 is the only Park Service campground in Wrangell-St. Elias. Built in 2012, it holds ten sites with picnic tables and fire rings plus two vault toilets. There is no fee and no reservation system, and it stays open year-round. The sites sit back from the road, with lake shoreline, short trails, canoe water, and grayling.
Five roadside pullouts take small and medium rigs first-come. Rufus Creek at Mile 6.1 has a picnic table under aspens beside the creek and no toilet. Kettle Lake at Mile 16.6 looks out at the Wrangells, also without a toilet. Dead Dog Hill at Mile 17.8 and Rock Lake at Mile 21.8 each have a vault toilet. Jack Creek at Mile 35.3 has two tables, a toilet, and room for three vehicles. It sits past all three fords, so reaching it depends on the creeks.
Tips for a Safe and Enjoyable Trip
- Stop at Slana first. The creeks are the variable on this drive, and the ranger station has the latest on them.
- Carry a full-size spare and a jack that will lift the vehicle. The Park Service names both specifically.
- Walk each ford before driving it. Depth changes through the day on snowmelt.
- Fuel before Slana.
- Treat any water taken past Slana.
- The free off-road-vehicle permits for the designated side trails come from the Slana Ranger Station, or by email when it is closed. Allow up to two weeks for an emailed request.
- Respect the private inholdings, the lodge at Mile 42.0, and the mine beyond it.
Fuel and Water
No fuel is sold in Slana or anywhere along the 42 miles. Fill up before turning off the Tok Cutoff.
The Park Service lists Chistochina 28 miles south, where Posty's Trading Post is not open around the clock and is worth a call ahead; Tok 64 miles north; and Glennallen 76 miles south. The park's camping guidance adds Mentasta, 18 miles north.
Potable water ends at Slana. Treat anything drawn from creeks or lakes along the road.
Nearby
Ahtna Native Corporation (Glennallen, 907-822-3476), Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge (Tok, 907-883-5312), and Alaska State Parks (907-762-2261) hold land near the corridor, each with its own rules and its own camping options.
The McCarthy Road, the park's only other road, does not connect to this one. Reaching one from the other is a long drive around.